Koi Pond Heater Or Koi Pond
De Icer…Which Should You Use?

What should you do when the weather gets colder? Use a koi pond heater or a koi pond de icer? The answer is “it depends”.

As long as your pond is deep enough you can keep your koi outdoors through the winter.

Their metabolism will slow down and you’ll need to switch them to a lower protein food in the fall and then stop feeding them altogether once the temperatures drop below 50 degrees fahrenheit.

At that time they will become very sluggish and hang around at the bottom of tthe pond where the water is warmer.

The reason some people like using a
koi pond heater is because they like to feed their koi through the winter. When the fish are not taking in nutrients and are sluggish their immune systems slow down as well.

Then in the spring when they “come back to life”, other things, like bacteria are coming back to life as well. With their suppressed immune systems your koi are more susceptible to bacterial infections.

Many people prefer being able to feed through the winter to having to treat their fish for a bacterial infection.

If your pond freezes over in winter you will need to make sure to keep an opening in the ice for gases to escape. If gases get trapped beneath the ice you will end up with a pond full of dead koi in the spring!

A de icer will keep a small area open on the surface of your pond, allowing it to “breathe”. You should NEVER open a hole in the ice by breaking it with a hammer or other implement as this will send shock waves through the water that can kill your fish.

If you live in a colder climate you need to decide if you prefer to use a koi pond de icer or a koi pond heater.

Alan Deacon

KoiCareBasics.com

Koi filtration is probably the most important mechanical function in your pond! Without a filter you won’t be able to keep your water clean and we all should know by now that the most critical factor in koi health is water quality!

I just put up a new Squidoo lens about the koi pond filter. It provides information on the basics of koi filters, how they work and what they do.

Different aspects of filtering are reviewed and you will find out where you can go to save money on all your koi pond filtration needs!

Don’t neglect to learn all you can about the koi filter that you may already have, or that you will purchase in the future. Your filter determines, to a degree (along with the size of your pond), how many koi your koi fish pond will be able to sustain, how quickly and large your koi will grow and how healthy they will be.

If you want to learn more about the basics of koi and koi pond care head over to my website and grab a copy of the ebook or audio version of Koi Care Basics

Alan Deacon
KoiCareBasics.com

For any pond over 1000 gallons it is wise to use a pressurized biological sand or bead filter that can be back washed. There are pros and cons with either sand or beads.

During the backwash portion of the operation, sand, since it is heavier than water, falls to the bottom of the tank instead of flowing out through the valve with the waste. Plastic beads, since they are lighter than water, float to the top. As they are smaller than the valve-strainer’s holes, they get washed out through the valve into the waste stream. More and more beads are lost during each backwash operation.

Bead filters also have limited efficiency. Smaller beads have more surface area for good bacteria colonization, but tend to get flushed out during the backwash procedure. This doesn’t happen to the larger sized beads, but they have less surface area and thus are unable to filter as efficiently.

By under-loading the sand filters, and backwashing them more frequently with higher pressures and flow rates, you can take advantage of the greater food processing surface areas, while eliminating the chance of plugging, which can be their main fault. Many manufacturers recommendations for loading sand tend to be too high.

This causes the sand to plug the filter which is the main drawback of sand as a filtration medium.

Up-flow and gravity flow filters need to be cleaned regularly and it is a filthy job. The filter media is packed with rotting organic matter and foul odored fish waste .

As you clean and handle all the various parts of these filters you will find small, white feces-eating worms crawling on your hands and arms. Add to this the ambiance of the offensive odor described above and you don’t exactly have nirvana!

The up-flow and gravity flow filters, though inexpensive to make, cost a fortune to purchase. So, in addition to paying a premium price to buy one, you are also spending so much time and labor that you might as well have paid at least twice the price!

If you use a pressurized filter, all it takes is the turn of a handle for 2 to 3 minutes and the filter is clean. Almost like magic! This saves lots of time, inconvenience, labor, mess, and wear and tear on your Koi. It uses slightly more electricity to operate a pressurized pump, but the savings in labor more than make up for it in most pond owner’s eyes!

You can also use the waste water for your plants. It is packed with nitrogen and works even better than many of the fertilizers created especially for this purpose!

As you can see, to find the type that is right for you, you have several decisions to make about Koi pond filtration.

Alan Deacon
KoiCareBasics.com

These pieces of Koi pond equipment, while not exactly necessities, are well worth the cost and you should acquire them if you can!

ALMOST NEEDS:

Skimmer: Your skimmer draws in surface debris. It is possible to do this manually with a net and by using a pond vacuum to get any debris that makes it’s way to the bottom of your pond. If you can afford to get one it greatly cuts down on your labor!

UV Light: A UV light is especially helpful in newer ponds until beneficial bacteria is established as your pond matures. This piece of Koi pond equipment kills algal blooms that float about suspended in your pond water. Two things to note; you need the proper size for your pond or it won’t be effective and UV lights don’t kill string algae as it’s attached and doesn’t float about in your pond.

Jets: People that have jets in their ponds say that they would never want to do without them. While not a necessity they do provide exercises for your Koi who are river fish and enjoy swimming in a current. If you install them in the right places you can move water out of “dead” areas of your pond and direct it towards the skimmer where debris can be collected. Also if they are installed so the water breaks the surface they can help to oxygenate your pond! As you can see they provide many benefits.

Auto-fills: While far from being a necessity an auto-fill makes maintaining your pond easier. As it’s name implies it always keeps your water at a pre-determined level. As water evaporates it is automatically replaced. This reduces the risk of forgetting to turn off the hose and inadvertently killing your fish by chlorination.

WANTS:

I consider pre-filters, underwater lights and automatic feeders to be in the “wants” category. They may be nice to have but definitely not necessities.

These are the basics, although there are definitely more details to consider when you choose specific pieces of Koi pond equipment.

Alan Deacon
KoiCareBasics.com

With Koi pond equipment, as with everything there are both wants and needs. You must be able to determine which are which.

There are also some types of equipment that, while not necessities, make caring for your pond so much easier that you should acquire them if you are able to.

Remember also that you will need to make decisions on some of these things during the initial stages of your Koi pond design and construction. If you leave out the necessities at the beginning it will cost you many times over to add them later.

NEEDS:

Pond Filter:   This piece of equipment is the “heart” of your Koi pond.  It keeps the water clean and healthy for your fish. The filter plays two very important roles. First, it mechanically removes fish waste and anything else that causes cloudiness in your pond.  Second, biological filtering changes the ammonia in your pond into nitrites and then to nitrates which renders them less toxic to your fish.

Bottom Drain:   Bottom drains are of the utmost importance in order to have a successful Koi pond.  Some ponds even need several bottom drains. Without a bottom drain your filter can’t do it’s job correctly.

Pump:   The last piece of necessary Koi pond equipment is your pump. You will want a large enough pump to send all your pond water through your filter every two to three hours. There are several factors to consider when choosing a pump. Make sure you choose an efficient pump designed specifically for Koi ponds.

These are the things you cannot do without to maintain a happy and healthy environment for your Koi. Make sure to invest in quality models of these pieces of Koi pond equipment!

Alan Deacon
KoiCareBasics.com

Which Koi pond liners  are better;  rubber liners or a concrete pond?  Both have advantages and disadvantages.

When a concrete pond is designed and built correctly it can be more permanent. You need to be very careful when designing a concrete pond that you have planned everything properly because once installed it literally is “cast in stone”!

You can form the shape and contours so that they are very smooth and even which is a must to avoid “dead areas” in your Koi pond.

The biggest disadvantage with concrete pond is that because of all the exposed concrete the ph tends to be higher for at least the first three years. There are, however, things that can be done to prevent this.

One way is to let the concrete cure and then coat it with a rubber base paint or epoxy.

A 45 mil rubber liner pond  is not as permanent. Rubber liners also come in a variety of thicknesses, with the thicker liners being more durable but the thinner ones being easier to shape and mold.

This lack of permanence can be a benefit in some situations. If your pond ends up having some design flaws that need changing, or if you need to move or remove the pond, you’ll be glad you’ve chosen a rubber liner.

An additional advantage is that rubber Koi pond liners will maintain a more neutral ph.

Rubber liners also provide a softer surface for your Koi.

A disadvantage of rubber Koi pond liners is that even when the liner  is installed properly you will  still  have some minor folds in the liner. Once you fill your pond these folds will barely be visible.

Another challenge with a rubber lined pond is the rock work around the edges.  If you don’t want the liner to show it will be necessary to camouflage it with rock work and plants.

The challenge is that the rock work will need to extend down into the water but the mortar for the rock work won’t stick to the liner.

Even though a rubber liner is less permanent when it is properly installed it can remain leak free for many years.

Taking into account the pros and cons of each will help you to make your own decision about Koi pond liners!

Alan Deacon
KoiCareBasics.com

In my opinion all Koi ponds should be at least three feet deep and not have any areas of the pond that are less than two feet deep!

All of the sides of the pond should go almost straight down rather than tapering. The pond just won’t be safe for your Koi otherwise. If you have any spots, particularly near the edge of the pond, that are less than two feet deep it is like sending out an open invitation to dinner to all the raccoons and blue heron in the area.

Even if you think you live in a relatively predator-free area you will find out differently if you don’t construct your pond defensively when it comes to depth. You might think your fish are safe if you have built a deep area with a cave for your Koi to hide in, but it will still be no match for the blue heron.

This Koi predator will simply wade out into your pond and wait patiently for the fish to come out of hiding.

It is much more aesthetically pleasing to build your pond properly than to find out later that it’s necessary to cover it with a net. A deep pond with steep sides is the best defense against Koi predators.

Another thing to know about depth is that Koi get the most exercise by swimming up and down in the pond as opposed to back and forth, thus to raise healthy, large Koi three feet deep is just the bare minimum. You might want to include an area up to six feet in depth to provide for plenty of exercise as well as safety.

There is a little room to play with when figuring depths for your Koi pond but make sure you take the forgoing tips seriously when planing your Koi pond design!

Alan Deacon
KoiCareBasics.com

When you are deciding about the placement of your Koi pond there are several things to consider.

First, koi ponds do better in a shaded or partially shaded spot than in full sun.

You can place a Koi pond in full sun, but a shadier area will  slow algae growth considerably and helps prevent the water from becoming too hot during the warm summer months.

If you build your pond in a sunny location you might want to consider putting up an arbor or awning to provide your pond with some shade.

Shade also helps with protecting your Koi from predators…it gives them a place to hide. And, believe it or not, Koi can get sunburned so having some shade gives them a place to go to keep out of the direct sunlight!

Leaves from trees near the pond, with the exception of pines, shouldn’t cause problems  if your pond is well designed.  Pine needles can create quite a mess as they can make their way through skimmers and leaf baskets and clog up your pump.

Once you have picked a spot and decided on a shape for your pond you can use a garden hose or rope to outline it’s size and shape.  This will give you some idea of  how the pond will look.

Keep in mind that your new Koi pond will probably be the central feature of your landscaping. Once you have the general outline shape of the pond established you can get a approximate idea of how many gallons it would be by multiplying the average length by the average width by the average depth by 7.5 gallons per cubic foot.

You’ll still have quite a few decisions to make but you’ll have a good starting point!

Happy pond designing!

Alan Deacon
KoiCareBasics.com

One of the most common mistakes people make when designing their first Koi pond is that they plan to build it too small.

The smallest pond I would recommend building is 1500 gallons, which would be approximately 7 feet wide by 8 feet long and 4 feet deep.

This may sound very large to some people, but if you build a pond much smaller than that, you will probably not end up being happy with it.

One of the problems is that Koi fish are extremely addictive and just like with Lay’s potato chips, it is hard to be happy with just a few!

You also need to keep in mind that you may start out with several 6 inch long Koi, but within 3 to 4 years they could grow to be 2 feet long or more.

With very few exceptions, most people end up wishing they had made their first pond bigger.

Bigger isn’t always better though. The largest pond I would recommend building is 15,000 gallons. The dimensions would be approximately 17 feet wide by 21 feet long and 6 feet deep.

A Koi pond design much larger than that can cause you several problems. For example it can become almost impossible to catch one of the fish if you need to.

If it becomes necessary to medicate the pond it will become more expensive the larger your pond gets. In addition, all the water in the pond will need to be filtered at least once every three hours. Operating pumps large enough to get the job done can cost hundreds of dollars per month.

Last, but not least, if you design a pond that is too large you won’t be able to enjoy your Koi as much because the larger the pond the less your fish will be visible.

Make sure to plan your Koi pond design carefully to comfortably accomodate your Koi and please your sense of aesthetics!

You can find more helpful information about Koi pond design in my eBook “Koi Care Basics” found at KoiCareBasics.com

Alan Deacon
KoiCareBasics.com

What is healthy Koi water? This is an extremely important question because the water quality in your Koi pond is the most important factor affecting the health of your fish.

You can determine if the quality of your pond water is sufficient for your koi if the following criteria are met:

1) The water in your pond is free of chlorine and other chemicals such as pesticides, heavy metals, organophosphates, etc.

2) There are undetectable levels of ammonia and nitrite in your pond.

3) Water hardness, pH level, and temperature are correct.

4) There are low levels of particulate organic compounds (POC) and dissolved organic compounds (DOC) in your pond and…

5) Your Koi water stays consistent in it’s stability.

If you use tap water in your pond it has probably been treated with chlorine. Chlorine can be fatal to your Koi. One way to make it safe is by “aging” chlorinated water before placing your Koi in it. How long is long enough? Make sure you wait AT LEAST 24 hours before placing your Koi in tap water.

If you use subsequent additions of tap water in your pond make sure that the amount is a small percentage of the total volume of pond water. Also be sure to test for chlorine levels after each addition.

The next deadliest contaminant in your Koi water would be ammonia. You always have to be careful of ammonia because the main source of the ammonia in your pond is your Koi themselves! Fortunately ammonia can be broken down into it’s less harmful components through the process of biological filtration.

Since certain types of beneficial bacteria break down the ammonia, the highest risk for ammonia contamination is in newer ponds. This is due to the fact that they haven’t yet developed large enough colonies to neutralize the ammonia.

Since the danger from ammonia in new ponds is so serious I recommend that you check ammonia levels every day until they stabilize and make frequent Koi water changes, even daily if necessary. Once your ammonia readings stabilize you will be able to relax a bit!

An acceptable level of ammonia in your pond is actually ZERO!

Even very low ammonia levels (<.1mg./liter) are extremely irritating to Koi fish, especially to their gills, and higher levels can lead to skin and gill hyperplasia. In gill hyperplasia the secondary gill lamellae become swollen leading to breathing difficulties. Serious gill disease and death occur when high levels of ammonia contamination are reached.

As you can see, even in the case of just these two factors of  water quality it is essential that you monitor and maintain your pond so that your fish have healthy Koi water!

Alan Deacon
KoiCareBasics.com