Koi Care Basics Blog

These pieces of Koi pond equipment, while not exactly necessities, are well worth the cost and you should acquire them if you can!

ALMOST NEEDS:

Skimmer: Your skimmer draws in surface debris. It is possible to do this manually with a net and by using a pond vacuum to get any debris that makes it’s way to the bottom of your pond. If you can afford to get one it greatly cuts down on your labor!

UV Light: A UV light is especially helpful in newer ponds until beneficial bacteria is established as your pond matures. This piece of Koi pond equipment kills algal blooms that float about suspended in your pond water. Two things to note; you need the proper size for your pond or it won’t be effective and UV lights don’t kill string algae as it’s attached and doesn’t float about in your pond.

Jets: People that have jets in their ponds say that they would never want to do without them. While not a necessity they do provide exercises for your Koi who are river fish and enjoy swimming in a current. If you install them in the right places you can move water out of “dead” areas of your pond and direct it towards the skimmer where debris can be collected. Also if they are installed so the water breaks the surface they can help to oxygenate your pond! As you can see they provide many benefits.

Auto-fills: While far from being a necessity an auto-fill makes maintaining your pond easier. As it’s name implies it always keeps your water at a pre-determined level. As water evaporates it is automatically replaced. This reduces the risk of forgetting to turn off the hose and inadvertently killing your fish by chlorination.

WANTS:

I consider pre-filters, underwater lights and automatic feeders to be in the “wants” category. They may be nice to have but definitely not necessities.

These are the basics, although there are definitely more details to consider when you choose specific pieces of Koi pond equipment.

Alan Deacon
KoiCareBasics.com

With Koi pond equipment, as with everything there are both wants and needs. You must be able to determine which are which.

There are also some types of equipment that, while not necessities, make caring for your pond so much easier that you should acquire them if you are able to.

Remember also that you will need to make decisions on some of these things during the initial stages of your Koi pond design and construction. If you leave out the necessities at the beginning it will cost you many times over to add them later.

NEEDS:

Pond Filter:   This piece of equipment is the “heart” of your Koi pond.  It keeps the water clean and healthy for your fish. The filter plays two very important roles. First, it mechanically removes fish waste and anything else that causes cloudiness in your pond.  Second, biological filtering changes the ammonia in your pond into nitrites and then to nitrates which renders them less toxic to your fish.

Bottom Drain:   Bottom drains are of the utmost importance in order to have a successful Koi pond.  Some ponds even need several bottom drains. Without a bottom drain your filter can’t do it’s job correctly.

Pump:   The last piece of necessary Koi pond equipment is your pump. You will want a large enough pump to send all your pond water through your filter every two to three hours. There are several factors to consider when choosing a pump. Make sure you choose an efficient pump designed specifically for Koi ponds.

These are the things you cannot do without to maintain a happy and healthy environment for your Koi. Make sure to invest in quality models of these pieces of Koi pond equipment!

Alan Deacon
KoiCareBasics.com

Which Koi pond liners  are better;  rubber liners or a concrete pond?  Both have advantages and disadvantages.

When a concrete pond is designed and built correctly it can be more permanent. You need to be very careful when designing a concrete pond that you have planned everything properly because once installed it literally is “cast in stone”!

You can form the shape and contours so that they are very smooth and even which is a must to avoid “dead areas” in your Koi pond.

The biggest disadvantage with concrete pond is that because of all the exposed concrete the ph tends to be higher for at least the first three years. There are, however, things that can be done to prevent this.

One way is to let the concrete cure and then coat it with a rubber base paint or epoxy.

A 45 mil rubber liner pond  is not as permanent. Rubber liners also come in a variety of thicknesses, with the thicker liners being more durable but the thinner ones being easier to shape and mold.

This lack of permanence can be a benefit in some situations. If your pond ends up having some design flaws that need changing, or if you need to move or remove the pond, you’ll be glad you’ve chosen a rubber liner.

An additional advantage is that rubber Koi pond liners will maintain a more neutral ph.

Rubber liners also provide a softer surface for your Koi.

A disadvantage of rubber Koi pond liners is that even when the liner  is installed properly you will  still  have some minor folds in the liner. Once you fill your pond these folds will barely be visible.

Another challenge with a rubber lined pond is the rock work around the edges.  If you don’t want the liner to show it will be necessary to camouflage it with rock work and plants.

The challenge is that the rock work will need to extend down into the water but the mortar for the rock work won’t stick to the liner.

Even though a rubber liner is less permanent when it is properly installed it can remain leak free for many years.

Taking into account the pros and cons of each will help you to make your own decision about Koi pond liners!

Alan Deacon
KoiCareBasics.com

In my opinion all Koi ponds should be at least three feet deep and not have any areas of the pond that are less than two feet deep!

All of the sides of the pond should go almost straight down rather than tapering. The pond just won’t be safe for your Koi otherwise. If you have any spots, particularly near the edge of the pond, that are less than two feet deep it is like sending out an open invitation to dinner to all the raccoons and blue heron in the area.

Even if you think you live in a relatively predator-free area you will find out differently if you don’t construct your pond defensively when it comes to depth. You might think your fish are safe if you have built a deep area with a cave for your Koi to hide in, but it will still be no match for the blue heron.

This Koi predator will simply wade out into your pond and wait patiently for the fish to come out of hiding.

It is much more aesthetically pleasing to build your pond properly than to find out later that it’s necessary to cover it with a net. A deep pond with steep sides is the best defense against Koi predators.

Another thing to know about depth is that Koi get the most exercise by swimming up and down in the pond as opposed to back and forth, thus to raise healthy, large Koi three feet deep is just the bare minimum. You might want to include an area up to six feet in depth to provide for plenty of exercise as well as safety.

There is a little room to play with when figuring depths for your Koi pond but make sure you take the forgoing tips seriously when planing your Koi pond design!

Alan Deacon
KoiCareBasics.com

When you are deciding about the placement of your Koi pond there are several things to consider.

First, koi ponds do better in a shaded or partially shaded spot than in full sun.

You can place a Koi pond in full sun, but a shadier area will  slow algae growth considerably and helps prevent the water from becoming too hot during the warm summer months.

If you build your pond in a sunny location you might want to consider putting up an arbor or awning to provide your pond with some shade.

Shade also helps with protecting your Koi from predators…it gives them a place to hide. And, believe it or not, Koi can get sunburned so having some shade gives them a place to go to keep out of the direct sunlight!

Leaves from trees near the pond, with the exception of pines, shouldn’t cause problems  if your pond is well designed.  Pine needles can create quite a mess as they can make their way through skimmers and leaf baskets and clog up your pump.

Once you have picked a spot and decided on a shape for your pond you can use a garden hose or rope to outline it’s size and shape.  This will give you some idea of  how the pond will look.

Keep in mind that your new Koi pond will probably be the central feature of your landscaping. Once you have the general outline shape of the pond established you can get a approximate idea of how many gallons it would be by multiplying the average length by the average width by the average depth by 7.5 gallons per cubic foot.

You’ll still have quite a few decisions to make but you’ll have a good starting point!

Happy pond designing!

Alan Deacon
KoiCareBasics.com

One of the most common mistakes people make when designing their first Koi pond is that they plan to build it too small.

The smallest pond I would recommend building is 1500 gallons, which would be approximately 7 feet wide by 8 feet long and 4 feet deep.

This may sound very large to some people, but if you build a pond much smaller than that, you will probably not end up being happy with it.

One of the problems is that Koi fish are extremely addictive and just like with Lay’s potato chips, it is hard to be happy with just a few!

You also need to keep in mind that you may start out with several 6 inch long Koi, but within 3 to 4 years they could grow to be 2 feet long or more.

With very few exceptions, most people end up wishing they had made their first pond bigger.

Bigger isn’t always better though. The largest pond I would recommend building is 15,000 gallons. The dimensions would be approximately 17 feet wide by 21 feet long and 6 feet deep.

A Koi pond design much larger than that can cause you several problems. For example it can become almost impossible to catch one of the fish if you need to.

If it becomes necessary to medicate the pond it will become more expensive the larger your pond gets. In addition, all the water in the pond will need to be filtered at least once every three hours. Operating pumps large enough to get the job done can cost hundreds of dollars per month.

Last, but not least, if you design a pond that is too large you won’t be able to enjoy your Koi as much because the larger the pond the less your fish will be visible.

Make sure to plan your Koi pond design carefully to comfortably accomodate your Koi and please your sense of aesthetics!

You can find more helpful information about Koi pond design in my eBook “Koi Care Basics” found at KoiCareBasics.com

Alan Deacon
KoiCareBasics.com

What is healthy Koi water? This is an extremely important question because the water quality in your Koi pond is the most important factor affecting the health of your fish.

You can determine if the quality of your pond water is sufficient for your koi if the following criteria are met:

1) The water in your pond is free of chlorine and other chemicals such as pesticides, heavy metals, organophosphates, etc.

2) There are undetectable levels of ammonia and nitrite in your pond.

3) Water hardness, pH level, and temperature are correct.

4) There are low levels of particulate organic compounds (POC) and dissolved organic compounds (DOC) in your pond and…

5) Your Koi water stays consistent in it’s stability.

If you use tap water in your pond it has probably been treated with chlorine. Chlorine can be fatal to your Koi. One way to make it safe is by “aging” chlorinated water before placing your Koi in it. How long is long enough? Make sure you wait AT LEAST 24 hours before placing your Koi in tap water.

If you use subsequent additions of tap water in your pond make sure that the amount is a small percentage of the total volume of pond water. Also be sure to test for chlorine levels after each addition.

The next deadliest contaminant in your Koi water would be ammonia. You always have to be careful of ammonia because the main source of the ammonia in your pond is your Koi themselves! Fortunately ammonia can be broken down into it’s less harmful components through the process of biological filtration.

Since certain types of beneficial bacteria break down the ammonia, the highest risk for ammonia contamination is in newer ponds. This is due to the fact that they haven’t yet developed large enough colonies to neutralize the ammonia.

Since the danger from ammonia in new ponds is so serious I recommend that you check ammonia levels every day until they stabilize and make frequent Koi water changes, even daily if necessary. Once your ammonia readings stabilize you will be able to relax a bit!

An acceptable level of ammonia in your pond is actually ZERO!

Even very low ammonia levels (<.1mg./liter) are extremely irritating to Koi fish, especially to their gills, and higher levels can lead to skin and gill hyperplasia. In gill hyperplasia the secondary gill lamellae become swollen leading to breathing difficulties. Serious gill disease and death occur when high levels of ammonia contamination are reached.

As you can see, even in the case of just these two factors of  water quality it is essential that you monitor and maintain your pond so that your fish have healthy Koi water!

Alan Deacon
KoiCareBasics.com

To create a lush water garden design that enhances your beautiful fish you will want to choose a variety of Koi pond plants so that you have a balanced look and ecosystem. There are several types of plants you can include.

Water Hyacinth is a beautiful and functional Koi pond plant

The first type are SUBMERGED PLANTS like Anacharis and Cabomba. These are planted underwater in the gravel or soil and they will help to oxygenate your pond. They do this by pulling carbon dioxide from the water and releasing oxygen as part of the photosynthesis process.

Another type are the FLOATING PLANTS. Many of these plants provide your garden with lovely flowers. The root systems that drift below the surface actually act like a filtration device, which is why some sanitation plants use Water Hyacinth as part of their purification process. Plants such as the Water Hyacinth and Water Lettuce also may serve as camouflage for your pond filter or other pond equipment.

MARGINAL PLANTS like Cattails and Irises do best in the shallow water or wet soil around the edge of your Koi pond. They grow up above the water. Marginal Koi pond plants make an ideal way to transition from pond to the surrounding area in a gradual way.

The final type of pond plants are FLOWERING WATER LILIES. They are the essence of any

Water Lilys provide shade and are a nice addition to any Koi pond.

water garden or Koi pond. They are similar to marginal plants in that their roots grow underwater, while the leaves and flowers emerge above the surface. Lilies will spread across your pond surface. They aid in providing shade and shelter as well as aesthetic appeal.

The following are some of the items that are necessary for planting and tending to your Koi pond plants:

~Planting Baskets These baskets will contain and anchor your plants on submerged shelves. You can also use floating island planters to create one-of-a-kind floating arrangements.

~Aquatic Planting Media boosts the ability of root systems to gain a firm foothold and get well established for the growing season.

~Aquatic Fertilizers are used to promote blooms, lush foliage, and strong roots in aquatic plants.

~Pruning Tools give you the extra reach to trim and sculpt plants for a well-manicured Koi water garden.

The above suggestions include the basics that will give you a good start on planting and maintaining beautiful and healthy Koi pond plants.

For more information about Koi and Koi pond care visit the website at http://www.Koi CareBasics.com

Today I’m posting a letter that I just sent out to my email
list. The content is important so I wanted to make sure that my blog
readers get it too!

“I thought I’d send along an article I came across the other day.

Hopefully you know that you don’t want to place your Koi pond at the
bottom of a slope. That way if there is any pesticide runoff from a
garden or from your lawn it won’t be directed towards your pond.

Koi are fairly hardy but contaminating their water with pesticides
can kill even the hardiest of Koi.

In fact the three most important components of Koi care are:
1. Water Quality
2. Water Quality and
3. Water Quality

It’s that important.

I hope you find the article interesting and that it drives home the
point. You probably won’t ever run into this extreme (hopefully) but
it won’t hurt to keep this in mind.

Here’s the link to the article:
Pesticides Article
More about water quality next time!

Take Care,
Alan Deacon
KoiCareBasics.com

The Koi pond liner is one of the most important pieces of equipment will get for your pond. It’s main purpose is to prevent the pond water from leaking into the surrounding soil.

There are numerous types of liners available. Concrete, fiberglass, rigid plastic and flexible liners are the most common and every pond liner has positive as well as negative features.

Knowledge of the positives and negatives of each will help you determine the best Koi pond liner for your pond.

* Concrete pond liners used to be considered the longest lasting liners. People who were building a permanent Koi pond used concrete to line their ponds. Some of the drawbacks that have been discovered with concrete include the leakage of toxins from the concrete into the pond and the higher price of purchase and installation.

* The fiberglass Koi pond liner is considered one of the best pond liners available. The average lifespan of this type of liner is approximately 50 years. They can be installed easily and they expand for ice without cracking. Their only disadvantage is an unnatural look and the extra care needing to be taken with the landscaping to disguise it.

* Rigid pond liners are considered the cheapest in the category and they have a natural look. They are considered good resistors of sharp roots as well as rocks but their drawback is installation problems. These pond liners can not be installed easily. It is very difficult to dig the right size hole to lay the liner in. But it is a great choice for Koi enthusiasts in warm areas. They are rated highly in terms of controlling leakage.

* Flexible pond liners have a minimum lifespan of 20 years and are believed to have a firm resistance against weathering and cold cracking. They are completely non-toxic and you can get them for a fraction of the cost of concrete pond liners. These pond liners are best for almost every climate. Due to their wonderful flexibility you can install them with great ease. This particular type of Koi pond liner is probably the most often purchased.

Prior to installing a Koi pond liner you must decide upon the location where you want to place the pond. The procedure is to outline the shape and size with chalk and colored string. Following this is excavation of the soil from the marked area.

If the hole is deeper than three feet you will probably require a permit from the municipal department in your town or city.

Finally you will fill the bottom of the hole with sand and salt to bring the bottom level. Now the excavated area is ready to accomodate your carefully chosen Koi pond liner!