Koi Care Basics Blog

These pieces of Koi pond equipment, while not exactly necessities, are well worth the cost and you should acquire them if you can!

ALMOST NEEDS:

Skimmer: Your skimmer draws in surface debris. It is possible to do this manually with a net and by using a pond vacuum to get any debris that makes it’s way to the bottom of your pond. If you can afford to get one it greatly cuts down on your labor!

UV Light: A UV light is especially helpful in newer ponds until beneficial bacteria is established as your pond matures. This piece of Koi pond equipment kills algal blooms that float about suspended in your pond water. Two things to note; you need the proper size for your pond or it won’t be effective and UV lights don’t kill string algae as it’s attached and doesn’t float about in your pond.

Jets: People that have jets in their ponds say that they would never want to do without them. While not a necessity they do provide exercises for your Koi who are river fish and enjoy swimming in a current. If you install them in the right places you can move water out of “dead” areas of your pond and direct it towards the skimmer where debris can be collected. Also if they are installed so the water breaks the surface they can help to oxygenate your pond! As you can see they provide many benefits.

Auto-fills: While far from being a necessity an auto-fill makes maintaining your pond easier. As it’s name implies it always keeps your water at a pre-determined level. As water evaporates it is automatically replaced. This reduces the risk of forgetting to turn off the hose and inadvertently killing your fish by chlorination.

WANTS:

I consider pre-filters, underwater lights and automatic feeders to be in the “wants” category. They may be nice to have but definitely not necessities.

These are the basics, although there are definitely more details to consider when you choose specific pieces of Koi pond equipment.

Alan Deacon
KoiCareBasics.com

What is healthy Koi water? This is an extremely important question because the water quality in your Koi pond is the most important factor affecting the health of your fish.

You can determine if the quality of your pond water is sufficient for your koi if the following criteria are met:

1) The water in your pond is free of chlorine and other chemicals such as pesticides, heavy metals, organophosphates, etc.

2) There are undetectable levels of ammonia and nitrite in your pond.

3) Water hardness, pH level, and temperature are correct.

4) There are low levels of particulate organic compounds (POC) and dissolved organic compounds (DOC) in your pond and…

5) Your Koi water stays consistent in it’s stability.

If you use tap water in your pond it has probably been treated with chlorine. Chlorine can be fatal to your Koi. One way to make it safe is by “aging” chlorinated water before placing your Koi in it. How long is long enough? Make sure you wait AT LEAST 24 hours before placing your Koi in tap water.

If you use subsequent additions of tap water in your pond make sure that the amount is a small percentage of the total volume of pond water. Also be sure to test for chlorine levels after each addition.

The next deadliest contaminant in your Koi water would be ammonia. You always have to be careful of ammonia because the main source of the ammonia in your pond is your Koi themselves! Fortunately ammonia can be broken down into it’s less harmful components through the process of biological filtration.

Since certain types of beneficial bacteria break down the ammonia, the highest risk for ammonia contamination is in newer ponds. This is due to the fact that they haven’t yet developed large enough colonies to neutralize the ammonia.

Since the danger from ammonia in new ponds is so serious I recommend that you check ammonia levels every day until they stabilize and make frequent Koi water changes, even daily if necessary. Once your ammonia readings stabilize you will be able to relax a bit!

An acceptable level of ammonia in your pond is actually ZERO!

Even very low ammonia levels (<.1mg./liter) are extremely irritating to Koi fish, especially to their gills, and higher levels can lead to skin and gill hyperplasia. In gill hyperplasia the secondary gill lamellae become swollen leading to breathing difficulties. Serious gill disease and death occur when high levels of ammonia contamination are reached.

As you can see, even in the case of just these two factors of  water quality it is essential that you monitor and maintain your pond so that your fish have healthy Koi water!

Alan Deacon
KoiCareBasics.com

The Koi pond liner is one of the most important pieces of equipment will get for your pond. It’s main purpose is to prevent the pond water from leaking into the surrounding soil.

There are numerous types of liners available. Concrete, fiberglass, rigid plastic and flexible liners are the most common and every pond liner has positive as well as negative features.

Knowledge of the positives and negatives of each will help you determine the best Koi pond liner for your pond.

* Concrete pond liners used to be considered the longest lasting liners. People who were building a permanent Koi pond used concrete to line their ponds. Some of the drawbacks that have been discovered with concrete include the leakage of toxins from the concrete into the pond and the higher price of purchase and installation.

* The fiberglass Koi pond liner is considered one of the best pond liners available. The average lifespan of this type of liner is approximately 50 years. They can be installed easily and they expand for ice without cracking. Their only disadvantage is an unnatural look and the extra care needing to be taken with the landscaping to disguise it.

* Rigid pond liners are considered the cheapest in the category and they have a natural look. They are considered good resistors of sharp roots as well as rocks but their drawback is installation problems. These pond liners can not be installed easily. It is very difficult to dig the right size hole to lay the liner in. But it is a great choice for Koi enthusiasts in warm areas. They are rated highly in terms of controlling leakage.

* Flexible pond liners have a minimum lifespan of 20 years and are believed to have a firm resistance against weathering and cold cracking. They are completely non-toxic and you can get them for a fraction of the cost of concrete pond liners. These pond liners are best for almost every climate. Due to their wonderful flexibility you can install them with great ease. This particular type of Koi pond liner is probably the most often purchased.

Prior to installing a Koi pond liner you must decide upon the location where you want to place the pond. The procedure is to outline the shape and size with chalk and colored string. Following this is excavation of the soil from the marked area.

If the hole is deeper than three feet you will probably require a permit from the municipal department in your town or city.

Finally you will fill the bottom of the hole with sand and salt to bring the bottom level. Now the excavated area is ready to accomodate your carefully chosen Koi pond liner!

The key to feeding Koi properly is that feeding Koi depends on the season. Actually, to be more specific, feeding Koi depends on the water temperature.

If you are feeding Koi in heated ponds then they can have a regular, year-round diet. Koi kept in heated ponds do not have to adjust to changes in water temperature.

Feeding Koi properly during the summer months encourages growth, helps in tissue maintenance and repair as well as helping lay down fat deposits and providing nutients that the fish can store for use during the winter months.

When water temperatures are between 64-68 degrees Fahrenheit (18-20 degrees Celcius) feeding Koi should incorporate a high protein diet that will promote growth. Conversely, feeding Koi in cooler temperatures involves less protein as it becomes more difficult to digest then. Instead it is excreted into the water, which not only makes feeding Koi more protein a bad feeding plan, but also pollutes the pond water.

You need to assess feeding Koi in the cooler months of fall and spring when Koi appetites are subdued. During this time feeding Koi should involve a change from a high protein feed to a wheat germ based diet that is easier to digest in the cooler temperatures.

Feeding Koi at temperatures below 46-50 degrees Fahrenheit should stop altogether. In these twater temperatures Koi won’t feed at all and will rely on the nutrients that it’s already stored to get it through the winter.

When the weather begins to warm up again and your fish begin seeking out food you can start feeding Koi the wheat germ based diet again. Then begin feeding Koi by gradually mixing in the higher protein summer food as the water warms up.

Amounts for feeding Koi depend on their age and body temperature. Feeding Koi fry is different from feeding Koi adults. When water temperature is around 68 degrees Fahrenheit Koi up to 1 year old eat 5-10% of their body weight, Koi between 1 and 3 years of age consume 5% of their body weight daily and adult Koi (3 years and older) consume 2% of their body weight daily.

A good rule of thumb for feeding Koi is to offer as much food as they will eat within 2-3 minutes at each feeding. When feeding Koi you will notice a big surge of activity at the beginning of each meal, then as they start to get full they will eat more slowly. This is the point at which you should stop feeding Koi.

As far as the frequency of feeding Koi take note that at temperatures of around 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celcius) feeding Koi should be planned for 2-3 times per day. Feeding Koi in colder temperatures (50-59 degrees Fahrenheit or 10-15 degrees Celcius) is only required once per day.

As you can see, it is extremely important to note seasons and temperatures when feeding Koi!

If you are looking for an exceptional Koi food enter “Hikari Koi food” in the search box when you follow this link for feeding Koi!

Alan Deacon
You can learn much more at my site…
KoiCareBasics.com

Secrets To Successfully Raising Koi Fry

Successfully raising Koi fry begins with Koi eggs. You should make sure your fry raising pond is equipped with air stones or their equivalent as Koi eggs need well aerated water to develop.

Koi Fry

During breeding some Koi keepers will use mechanical filters in their ponds, but this is not the best idea since when they can get sucked into the filter. This can be prevented by placing a fine net around the filter’s water intake. Microscopic food particles can become trapped on the foam around the filter. This attracts the Koi fry to the area and they become drawn into the filter.

You can forget using a filter altogether if you are willing to do frequent water changes. You need to replace approximately 20 percent of the water during the water exchange.

Koi eggs will usually hatch in 3 to 7 days depending on the water temperature. If water temperature is around 20 degrees Celcius (68 degrees Fahrenheit) Koi fry will hatch in about 3 to 4 days. You will know when the eggs are close to hatching because they will take on a special, shiny look.

Next you will be able to see the Koi fry wiggling and moving inside the egg, and a few hours later they will make their escape! Now you are ready to begin raising them.

As soon as the babies have emerged from their eggs they will attach themselves to the sides of the pond. Koi fry are equipped with a sticky pad that makes it possible for them to remain attached this way for 2 to 3 days. Providing plenty of oxygen is as important for raising the fry as it is for keeping the eggs healthy.

After 2 or 3 days of being attached the Koi fry will make their way to the surface of the pond to get some air.
When this occurs air passes into their swim bladder. Afterwards they will be able to swim happily around the pond!

At this point you will need to begin feeding them. Very small Koi fry can be fed newly hatched brine shrimp. Hard boiled egg is also a good choice in the first few days of raising Koi fry.

If you can’t provide them with this you can use a commercially prepared Koi fry food. Make sure to use only special Koi food with a high protein content and make sure to grind it into a fine powder before feeding it to your Koi fry.

After about 7 days you can start feeding a special Koi fry food consisting of fine powder pellets. When they reach 1/2 inch they can graduate to small pellets and as they grow you can gradually increase the pellet size until they are consuming the same food as their parents. Feeding is one of the most important components of raising Koi fry to be happy and healthy.

It is easy to overfeed your Koi fry and cause the water to become polluted. Young fry are very sensitive to ammonia. You must limit your feedings and provide a water change daily. The easiest way is to use water from your adult pond as long as your adult Koi are healthy and the quality of your pond water is good. You need to keep a watchful eye on water quality to prevent fungus.

If you observe these basic precepts you should have no trouble successfully raising Koi fry!

Alan Deacon
KoiCareBasics.com

The Black Koi is really only different from other types of koi due to it’s color. The Kumonryue first made a splash on the scene in the 1980’s. Of the many varieties of Black Koi it is the most popular. The inspiration for their name originated with this particular type of Koi’s resemblance to the dragons in paintings of centuries ago in Japan, in fact the literal translation of “Kumonryue” is “dragon fish”. These Koi, along with the Matsukawabe, can change their color.

In fact, one of the main attractions that Koi hold for pond owners is the great variety of colors that they display. An even greater attraction is the idea of owning a fish that can literally change colors right before one’s eyes as the Black Koi can!

Koi pond owners need to be careful since it is quite easy to fall in love with with the wide variety of colors that the Koi offers. That is why many owners will end up purchasing too many fish, thus overcrowding their ponds and negatively affecting their Koi’s environment and health.

The Japanese have been patient in developing the Koi. Over the years their breeding has produced numerous colors and more pattern combinations than can be mentioned in one short article. Using water temperature and diet they turned the common carp, with only one or two colors, into a glorious and diversly hued creature. It was an almost magical transformation!

Black Koi come in many variations

The first Black Koi species that mutated were called Magoi. They appeared to be black when you stood above them looking down, but they were actually a bronze color. Magoi blood is being sought after for breeding purposes because of the Magoi’s larger size. Breeders are hoping to hasten growth and maximize size of their Koi through these efforts.

Seasonal conditions, diet and water temperature can fluctuate and affect the color of all the Koi species. The Matsukawabake Koi is a Black Koi with white areas on it’s body. This Koi has been known to change back and forth from completely white, to black and back to white depending only on water temperature. This is a thrill to observe as most Koi coloration will only dull or brighten as conditions change.

In Japan “Karasu” means “crow”. The Karasu Koi has a black body and fins and can also have an orange or white belly. It is also one of the most ancient species.

Koi fish are popular in both indoor and outdoor ponds throughout the world. Their life span is generally from 25 to 35 years although some have been recorded to have lived as long as 200 years!

People seek out Koi because of their ease of maintenance, the colors they offer and the relationship that grows over time. The Black Koi is particularly popular primarily because of their ability to change color right in front of your eyes!

To learn more about how to get started with Koi fish visit us at
KoiCareBasics.com

Alan Deacon

Koi can learn to eat from your hand!

There is a wide variety of Koi fish food available. How do you decide what to feed your precious Koi?

For starters Koi are voracious eaters, consuming almost anything that comes their way, so it’s up to you as their caretaker to provide your fish with a balanced and nutritious diet.

You have the option of feeding a commercially available food, live insects, or a combination of both these items. In addition you can (and sometimes should)  feed occasional treats, fresh foods and nutritional supplements.

Koi fish are omnivores, meaning that they will consume both plant and animal matter, and their prefence runs towards larvae and aquatic insects. Many Koi pond owners either minimize or do not include plant life in their ponds because of their desire to have the Koi themselves be the main focal point.

Another reason they leave plants out of the equation is the enthusiasm with which Koi fish devour any edible in sight, often tipping over and destroying aquatic vegetation in the process! So…if you are one of those who leave the plant life out of your pond you MUST provide your Koi with adequate nutrition.

Make sure to choose a good quality Koi fish food.

The most common and convenient type of Koi fish food is manufactured dry foods made especially for Koi. They come in many different forms including pellets, granules, tablets, chunks and flakes. These products are easily stored, relatively inexpensive, easy to feed and contain sufficient nutrients.

When deciding which type and size to feed you need to take into consideration the age and size of your fish and even the time of year. The best Koi fish food for the summer months will contain more protein than the foods you feed in the cooler months when your Koi are less active. It should go without saying that you will want to choose smaller size pellets for smaller and younger fish and larger pellets or chunks for larger fish.

Many Koi owners like to use additional supplements to enhance the colors of their fish. In theory this works but take into consideration that the red color pattens in Koi are determined genetically. If the red fades then supplementation will not restore it even though the supplement may contain the raw ingredients necessary for color enhancement.

Supplements do improve the overall health of your Koi and do boost their immune systems. Commercial Koi fish food preparations incorporate some supplementation into their recipes. However new and more effective products have been developed in powder form and can be mixed with your current Koi fish food. Just make sure you do your research and aren’t overfeeding any particular supplement as too much of even a good thing can be toxic to your fish.

For further information about Koi fish food or Koi care in general you can visit the website at KoiCareBasics.com

If anyone’s fish have a special favorite I would love to hear about it!

Alan Deacon